This is the first of many "Lima-ism" posts I will write to explain some of the differences I have noticed here. My posts so far have been about how surprised I am to feel so little impact from the move, and in a general sense I maintain that this is true, but now I would like to get into the details a little bit and give you some examples of what IS different.
- A typical "combi"(pronounced comb-bee) at my usual stop in Miraflores
Pictured above is what may appear to be a peaceful, even hippy-ish love van, but it most definitely is not. It is a fierce and reckless animal. It cares for nothing, and no one other than itself, make no mistake. Combis are one of the major forms of "public transportation" aside from taxis, and are an ever-present attack on the major streets and distracts of Lima. They are a fast, crazy, loud(both in color and noise), scary, dangerous, crowded, dirty, cheap, and oddly efficient.
So prevalent and such a force are these small busses, that some Peruvians refer to the "Combi Culture". In that sense, it seems that they embody the overall climate of Lima quite well. Here in Lima you have a little more than 9 million people frantically trying to catch ahold of the economic growth from foreign investment, development, and mining. These combis are the transportation equivalent. Cutting each other off, weaving in and out of cars, motorcycles, and pedestrians as though they were bicycles, not busses. All the while yelling, cursing, and honking constantly. Even talking on the phone or reading the newspaper while doing so aren't uncommon! Speed limits? That would imply that the drivers know, or care how fast they are going. It is a constant race between them to reach the next stop first and grab up more passengers. You really have to experience this form of transportation to understand it.
Despite their hectic nature, combis are my primary and preferred method of transportation. First off they are cheap. I can get to work for about 60 cents versus $3.50 for a taxi. And, despite having no formal schedule, they are remarkably efficient. This they accomplish by numbers. On any major street you can expect to wait less than 30seconds for a combi to arrive and often they come in packs of three to five.
Painted on the sides of each combi are some of the major streets and areas on their route, but you don't have to read them because every Cobrador(fare collector) that regulates the boarding and getting off of passengers is an expert auctioneer. They rattle off their major stops with incredible speed, and much like the stereotypical auctioneer they have a specific "Cobrador voice". Also painted on the front or back of most combis is a small prayer, or religious saying. "Jesus please guide me" is a common and very appropriate message for anyone sharing the road with them. The insides can be quite amusing as well, probably the funniest decoration I've seen is a sticker that, translated, read something like, "Driving is a difficult job, please don't distract your driver."next to a picture of a a combi driver turning around to ogle what appeared to be a prostitute wearing a miniskirt with her boobs popping out. Clearly attractive women in small clothing are the greatest danger to our safety!
For my students, nearly all of whom drive, they consider combis to be an impediment to progress, that they should be eliminated and replaced with regular, orderly public transportation. From a driver's standpoint I wouldn't argue with them. But for me, I'm glad to have them and fully enjoy the ride.
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